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			<title>Reason Magazine - Staff</title>
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<title>Needing the Unnecessary</title>
<link>http://www.reason.com/news/show/28513.html</link>
<description> &lt;p&gt;If you want to understand material culture at the beginning of the 21st century, you must understand the overwhelming importance of unnecessary material. If you are looking for the one unambiguous result of modern capitalism, of the industrial revolution, and of marketing, here it is. In the way we live now, you are not what you make. You are what you consume. And most of what you consume is totally unnecessary yet remarkably well made.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;The most interesting of those superfluous objects belong in a socially constructed and ever-shifting class called &lt;em&gt;luxury&lt;/em&gt;. Consuming those objects, objects as rich in meaning as they are low in utility, causes lots of happiness and distress. As well they should. For one can make the argument that until all necessities are had by all members of a community, no one should have luxury. More complex still is that, since the 1980s, the bulk consumers of luxury have not been the wealthy but the middle class, your next-door neighbors and their kids. And this is happening not just in the West but in many parts of the world.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;When I was growing up in the middle class of the 1950s, luxury objects were lightly tainted with shame. You had to be a little cautious if you drove a Cadillac, wore a Rolex, or lived in a house with more than two columns out front. The rich could drip with diamonds, but you should stay dry. Movie stars could drive convertibles; you should keep your top up. If you've got it, don't flaunt it. Remember, the people surrounding you had lived through the Depression, a time that forever lit the bright lines between have-to-have, don't-need-to-have, and have-in-order-to-show-off.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;The best definition of this old-style off-limits luxury came to me from my dad. I was just a kid, and it was my first trip to a cafeteria: Morrison's Cafeteria in Pompano Beach, Florida, February 1955. When I got to the desserts, I removed the main course from my tray and loaded up on cake and JELL-O. My dad told me to put all the desserts back but one. I said that wasn't fair. To me the whole idea of cafeteria was to have as much as you want of what you want. My dad said no, that was not the idea of cafeteria. The idea of cafeteria is that you can have just one of many choices.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;h4
&gt;Luxurification&lt;/h4&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Look around American culture, and you will see how wrong he was. Almost every set of consumables has a dessert at the top. And you can have as much of it as you can get on your tray or as much of it as your credit card will allow. This is true not just for expensive products like town cars and McMansions but for everyday objects. In bottled water, for instance, there is Evian, advertised as if it were a liquor. In coffee, there's Starbucks; in ice cream, H&amp;auml;agen-Dazs; in sneakers, Nike; in whiskey, Johnnie Walker Blue; in credit cards, American Express Centurian; in wine, Chateau Margaux; in cigars, Arturo Fuente Hemingway; and, well, you know the rest. &lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Name the category, no matter how mundane, and you'll find a premium or, better yet, a super-premium brand at the top. And having more than you can conceivably use of such objects is not met with opprobrium but with genial acceptance. This pattern persists regardless of class: The average number of branded sneakers for adolescent males? It's 4.8 pairs. And regardless of culture: &lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;A favorite consumer product in China? Chanel lipstick dispensers sans lipstick. &lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Basil Englis and Michael Solomon, professors of marketing in the School of Business at Rutgers University, have studied the effects of brand consumption, particularly how college students cluster around top-brand knowledge. They drew guinea pigs from undergraduate business majors at their institution and presented them with 40 cards, each containing a description of a different cluster of consumers.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;The professors sifted the clusters to make four groups -- lifestyles, if you will -- representative of undergraduate society. They were Young Suburbia, Money &amp;amp; Brains, Smalltown Downtown, and Middle America. Then Englis and Solomon gathered images of objects from four product categories (automobiles, magazines/newspapers, toiletries, and alcoholic beverages) that fit into each group. The students were asked to put the various images together into coherent groups; they were also to state their current proximity to, or desire to be part of, each group in the future.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;As might be expected, the Money &amp;amp; Brains cluster was the most popular aspirational niche. What Englis and Solomon did not expect was how specific and knowledgeable the students were about the possessions that they did not have but knew that members of that cluster needed. &lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;When asked what brand of automobile they would drive, here's what they said: BMWs (53.6 percent), Mercedes (50.7), Cadillacs (30.4), Volvos (23.2), Porsches (21.7), Acuras (17.4), and Jaguars (15.9). They knew what they wanted to read: travel magazines (21.7 percent), &lt;em&gt;Vogue&lt;/em&gt; (21.7), &lt;em&gt;BusinessWeek&lt;/em&gt; (20.3), &lt;em&gt;Fortune&lt;/em&gt; (17.9), and &lt;em&gt;GQ&lt;/em&gt; (15.9). Again, this is not what they did read but what they took to be the reading material of the de-sired group. What they were actually reading (or so they said) were &lt;em&gt;Forbes, Barron's&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;The New Yorker&lt;/em&gt;, and &lt;em&gt;Gourmet&lt;/em&gt;. No mention of &lt;em&gt;Rolling Stone, Playboy, Spin&lt;/em&gt;, or &lt;em&gt;Maxim&lt;/em&gt; for this group. They certainly knew what to drink: Heineken beer (33.3 percent), expensive wines (26.1), scotch (18.8), champagne (17.4), and Beck's beer (15). They also knew what to sprinkle on their bodies: Polo (27.5 percent), Obsession (15.9), and Drakkar (15.9).&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;What the professors found was not just that birds of a feather had started to flock together, but that these young birds already knew what flock to shy away from. They were not ashamed of smoking, for instance, but of smoking the wrong brand. Their prime avoidance group corresponded to the Smalltown Downtown cluster. &lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;The Money &amp;amp; Brainers knew a lot about the Smalltowners. They knew about favored pickup trucks, Chevys (23.2 percent) and Fords (18.8). They knew that this group reads &lt;em&gt;People&lt;/em&gt; (30.4),&lt;em&gt; Sports Illustrated&lt;/em&gt; (26.1), &lt;em&gt;TV Guide&lt;/em&gt; (24.6), &lt;em&gt;Wrestling&lt;/em&gt; (21.7), fishing magazines (20.3), and &lt;em&gt;The National Enquirer&lt;/em&gt; (18.8). They assumed that Smalltowners preferred Budweiser (59.4), followed by Miller (24.6) and Coors (18.8). Essentially, the Money &amp;amp; Brainers had learned not just what to buy but what to avoid (or at least what to say to avoid). &lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Such shared knowledge is the basis of culture. This insight was, after all, the rationale behind a liberal arts education. John Henry Newman and Matthew Arnold argued for state-supported education in the 19th century precisely because cultural literacy meant social cohesion. No one argued that it was important to know algebraic functions or Latin etymologies or what constitutes a sonnet because such knowledge allows us to solve important social problems. We learn such matters because it is the basis of how to speak to each other, how we develop a bond of shared history and commonality.  This is the secular religion of the liberal arts and sciences, what French sociologist Pierre Bourdieu calls cultural capital.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;In our postmodern world we have, it seems, exchanged knowledge of history and science (a knowledge of production) for knowledge of products and how such products interlock to form coherent social patterns (a knowledge of consumption). Buy this and don't buy that has replaced make/learn this, don't make/learn that. After all, in the way we live now, everyone is a consumer, but not everyone is a worker. As Marcel Duchamp, sly observer of the changing scene, said, &amp;quot;Living is more a question of what one spends than what one makes.&amp;quot; Thus a new denomination of cultural capital.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;A shift in currency has clear ramifications. A producer culture focuses on the independent self of the worker: self-help, self-discipline, self-respect, self-control, self-reliance, self-interest. Responsibility is situated in the individual: Can she get work? A consumer culture, however, focuses on community: Fit in, don't stand out. Be cool. The standard of judgment becomes the ability to interact effectively with others, to win their affection and admiration -- to merge with others of the same lifestyle. Can he consume the right brands?&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;h4
&gt;Inventing Pashmina&lt;/h4&gt;
&lt;p&gt;The powerful desire to associate with recognized objects of little intrinsic but high positional value is at the heart of Luxe Americana. It is what Martha Stewart is doing down at Kmart introducing her Silver Label goods. Of her many endorsed products, one is of special interest: her line of matelass&amp;eacute; coverlets and shams -- really, just bedcovers. They are available in yellow, white, and multicolored stripes and come in silk, linen, crushed velvet, Egyptian cotton, cotton sateens, and even cashmere. Remember three things: This is Kmart, a bedspread is something you buy not to show off to others but to please yourself, and cashmere is supposed to be something really special.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;So here is the Cashmere Company hawking something it calls pashmina. The word is a linguistic trick. Cashmere is goat hair from Kashmir, an area between India and Pakistan, whereas pashmina is simply the Persian word for the same goat in the same area. In other words, it's the same stuff. But that's not what is interesting. It is that pashmina has been introduced precisely because places like Kmart have too much cashmere. So what we have is a top-of-the-line product topped because too many people were in the checkout line.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;But then again, what of Michael Graves–designed toasters for Target, Ralph Lauren house paint, and Ernest Hemingway and Cole Porter brand furniture at Ethan Allen Furniture stores? This tectonic shift in consumption is why the designer Lynette Jennings, host of the Discovery Channel's &lt;em&gt;Lynette Jennings Design&lt;/em&gt; and &lt;em&gt;HouseSmart&lt;/em&gt;, is peddling doorknobs at Home Depot.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;If you want to see how varied the consumers of the new luxuries are, just take a tour of your local Costco or Sam's Club parking lot. Observe the shiny new imported sedans and SUVs alongside aging subcompacts. Or spend an hour watching what is being sold on the Home Shopping Network, a televised flea market for impulse buyers. The system now has 23,000 incoming phone lines capable of handling up to 20,000 calls a minute. Home Shopping no longer sells just cubic zirconium rings. Not when the real money is in designer handbags.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;In the older culture, my dad's culture, the limited production capacity of the economy sharply reduced aspirations to material comfort. In the modern world, my culture, much greater material satisfactions lie within the reach of even those of modest means. Thus a producer culture becomes a consumer culture, a hoarding culture becomes a surplus culture, a work culture becomes a therapeutic culture. Because what you buy becomes more important than what you make, luxury is not a goal; for many it is a necessity.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;h4
&gt;Luxury Creep&lt;/h4&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Michael J. Apter, a psychologist at Northwestern University, has studied why we do things and, by extension, why we buy things. In &lt;em&gt;The Experience of Motivation: The Theory of Psychological Reversals&lt;/em&gt;, he divides general orientations into telic (arousal reducing) and paratelic (arousal seeking). A telic motivation starts with isolating a need and then feeling anxious about resolving it. The experience ends, if successful, with a feeling of relaxation. If the ending does not satisfy the need (postdecision dissonance), the anxiety continues, and the process is repeated until it abates. A paratelic tendency, however, begins in a state of well-being that edges over into boredom. The person seeks excitement and judges the act by the experience. Does it resolve boredom? Not to put too fine a point on it, but consuming luxury for many Americans has gone from telic to paratelic, from product to process, from problem resolution to emotion seeking, from object to experience.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;The one characteristic of modern luxe is its profound oxymoronic nature: If everyone can have it, is it still luxury? If you want to see the difference that a generation makes in downshifting luxury, just look at how top-of-the-line domestic automobiles are advertised. Compare Cadillac in the early part of the 20th century with Lincoln at the end of the century, and you'll get the idea.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Cadillac's pitch in a 1915 advertisement was that luxury comes at a price and that price includes humility, even mild mortification. You buy this car and you take responsibility for sharing excellence. The true price of luxury is not cheap. In fact, you will be reviled, assailed, and envied. This car is a laurel. Be careful how you wear it. The real headline is not just &amp;quot;The Penalty of Leadership,&amp;quot; it is &amp;quot;The Penalty of Luxury.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;By contrast, Lincoln's current pitch is pure indulgence: Buy this object and let your lust for comfort run wild. Lincoln is &amp;quot;what a luxury object should be.&amp;quot; And after all you've been through, you deserve it. If not to own, then to lease.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Needless to say, as the 20th century faded into oblivion, Cadillac, which had a history of &amp;quot;owning&amp;quot; the luxury category, lost its vaunted place as the best-selling domestic luxury car to Lincoln. The Lincoln division of the Ford Motor Car Company has a single-word advertising motto: &amp;quot;Luxury.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Perhaps the best example of what I call luxury creep, in which a down-market product comes uptown solely on the basis of advertising, is the Buick Century. Buick has had a history of being a car for strivers who have not quite made it. Just look back on Buick advertising in the '60s, and you can see the company's typical reticence. In 1965 Buick advertising carried the tag line, &amp;quot;Wouldn't you really rather have a Buick?,&amp;quot; which survived through the 1980s. In 1980 the company added a second theme: &amp;quot;The great American road belongs to Buick.&amp;quot; Then in 1986 the McCann-Erickson ad agency positioned Buicks as &amp;quot;premium American motorcars.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Now Buick does have a luxury car, the Park Avenue. But the Century is an underling, now positioned as &amp;quot;a luxury car for everyone.&amp;quot; Never mind that the tag line is an oxymoron. The problem is more fundamental. This car is just a standard Buick, which is just a jazzed-up Chevy, which is just a dumbed-down Cadillac, which is just an Oldsmobile, which is just like tons of Fords and Chryslers, as well as most Japanese midrange cars. The only luxury about it is the pretension of saying this is luxurious.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;h4
&gt;Punk Luxe?&lt;/h4&gt;
&lt;p&gt;In the last few years I have spent hours flipping through a new genre of magazine -- &lt;em&gt;The Robb Report, Millionaire, Indulgence, Flaunt, Luxe, Icon, Self&lt;/em&gt;: &lt;em&gt;The Best of Everything, Ornament: The Art of Personal Adornment&lt;/em&gt; -- as well as standard glossy pulp from Cond&amp;eacute; Nast like &lt;em&gt;GQ, Vogue, Vanity Fair&lt;/em&gt;, and, most recently, &lt;em&gt;Lucky&lt;/em&gt;. I have trolled Rodeo Drive, Worth Avenue, and upper Madison Avenue and traveled to Las Vegas, where I stood agog for hours in the Bellagio and Venetian hotels.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;I admit from the start that you could argue that this is not real luxury but a kind of ersatz variety, punk luxe, and maybe you would be correct. My father would have argued that real luxury is characterized not by shine but by patina, that its allure comes from inborn aesthetics, not from glitzy advertising, that it is passed from generation to generation and cannot be bought at the mall, and, most of all, that its consumption is private, not conspicuous. His words for modern luxury would have included &lt;em&gt;gauche&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;vulgar&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;nouveau&lt;/em&gt;, &lt;em&gt;tasteless&lt;/em&gt;, and, most interestingly, &lt;em&gt;offensive&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;In fact, maybe the rich have only two genuine luxury items left: time and philanthropy. The rest of us are having a go at all their stuff, albeit for a knockoff to be held only a short time. I can't afford a casita on Bermuda, but my timeshare can get it for me at least for a week. I can't own a limo, but I can rent one. If I can't fly on the Concorde, I can upgrade to first class with the miles I &amp;quot;earn&amp;quot; by using my American Express card. I can lease a Lexus.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;In a sense luxury objects don't exist anymore as they used to be-cause &amp;quot;real&amp;quot; luxury used to be for the &amp;quot;happy few,&amp;quot; and in the world of the jubilant Dow there is no more &amp;quot;happy few.&amp;quot; The world that we live in, as John Seabrook recently argued in &lt;em&gt;Nobrow: The Marketing of Culture and the Culture of Marketing&lt;/em&gt;, and as David Brooks explored in &lt;em&gt;Bobos in Paradise: The New Upper Class and How They Got There&lt;/em&gt;, no longer easily fits into intellectual classes. It now fits into consumption communities. So, for instance, we don't talk about high class, upper middle class, and middle class. Instead we talk about boomers, yuppies, Generation X, echo-boomers, nobrows, bobos (short for bourgeois bohemians), and the rest, who show what they are buying for themselves, not what they do for a living. And that's why each of these groups has its own luxury markers -- positional goods, in marketing jargon -- to be bought, not made.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;h4
&gt;High Brow to Nobrow&lt;/h4&gt;
&lt;p&gt;In a way, the new luxury is the ineluctable result of a market economy and a democratic political system. As journalist Thomas Beer wrote, &amp;quot;Money does not rule democracy. Money is democracy.&amp;quot; Back in the late 1940s Russell Lynes, editor of &lt;em&gt;Harper's&lt;/em&gt;, concocted a taxonomy of taste: high-brow, upper middle-brow, lower middle-brow, and low-brow. His system, as gleefully celebrated in the April 11, 1949, issue of &lt;em&gt;Life&lt;/em&gt; magazine, was scandalous when published, the topic of much cocktail party concern. &lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Lynes knew even then that Americans were no longer divided by &amp;quot;wealth, birth, or political eminence&amp;quot; but by consumption. These material distinctions were further explored in the 1980s in Paul Fussell's &lt;em&gt;Class: A Guide Through the American Status System&lt;/em&gt;. Tongue almost in cheek, Fussell even proposed a new class, what he called &amp;quot;category X people,&amp;quot; to be based not on material consumption but on a shared taste for the better life. Fussell got the phenomenon of the &amp;quot;massification&amp;quot; of the upper class correct, and he certainly understood how the democratizing of luxury was a mixed blessing, but he missed the materiality of this confluence. Instead of superfluous stuff being pushed aside, it became even more central. You had to buy your way out, one Volvo, one glass of merlot, one bow tie, one Sub-Zero refrigerator, one granite countertop at a time.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;From time to time in Western history there is vociferous antipathy toward high-end consumption. From Plato to the early Christians to the Renaissance, luxury  was thought to effeminize and weaken. But this was hardly a pressing problem, because just getting to the necessities of life was a full-time job for most.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;With increasing affluence this view shifted. Luxury became dangerous not because of de-basement but because it was a sign of overreaching, of getting out of place. An interesting transformation shows how fluid this category can be. In the Renaissance, luxury objects became those things thought worthy of being painted. Such objects were called &lt;em&gt;objets d'art.&lt;/em&gt; Now, of course, the luxury object is the painting itself. But you can see that even before the industrial revolution there was a growing desire to show stuff off, to use the material world as marker of social dominance, to strut, to flaunt.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;By the 18th century, social critics like Bernard Mandeville and economists like Adam Smith were beginning to suggest that, for improving the weal of humanity, the promise of consuming luxury might be a better carrot than the stick of shame. Yet there was still deep resentment for consuming out of your class, beyond your means. &lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;This suspicion about consuming beyond your class continued well into the 19th century. In fact, ancient sumptuary laws, explaining exactly what objects were forbidden by church and state, were read from the Anglican pulpit until the 1860s. Reading these laws took two hours of church time to complete, and the laws kept people in their places, if only to have to listen to them.&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;Clerics, clearly supported by the aristocracy, were not alone in stiff-arming luxury. With the onset of industrial surpluses, secular pundits like Henry David Thoreau railed against what they took to be the excesses of mass production. &amp;quot;Most of the luxuries, and many of the so-called comforts, of life are not only not indispensable, but positive hindrances to the elevation of mankind,&amp;quot; he pointed out in &lt;em&gt;Walden&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;By the &lt;em&gt;fin de si&amp;egrave;cle&lt;/em&gt; this view of high-end consumption had so exploded that Thorstein Veblen unloosed the first modern sustained attack on luxury in his thoroughly entertaining &lt;em&gt;Theory of the Leisure Class&lt;/em&gt; (1899). Coining all manner of nifty concepts like conspicuous consumption, invidious comparison, bandwagon effect, symbolic pantomime, vicarious leisure, and parodic display, Veblen had at the excesses of robber-baron shopping.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;h4
&gt;The Leisure Classic&lt;/h4&gt;
&lt;p&gt;In fact, one might say that Veblen enjoyed it rather too much and succeeded only too well. When he formulated his theory of the leisure class at the turn of the century, ostentation in dress was at its full plumage, not least because new money was desperate to prove that it had made it to high society. Veblen's argument was so simple that it cut like Occam's razor. It has proved so powerful that it has achieved the status of unquestioned truism.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Here is Veblen's argument: As wealth spreads, what drives consumers' behavior is increasingly neither subsistence nor comfort but the attainment of &amp;quot;the esteem and envy of fellow men.&amp;quot; Because male wage earners are too circumspect to indulge themselves, they deposit consumption on surrogates, on loved ones. Vicarious ostentation -- the way that plainly dressed Victorian men encouraged their wives and daughters to wear complicated trappings of wealth -- is how this unfolds. Ditto their servants, horses, and even house pets.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;In retrospect, Veblen was too successful, too neat, too sharp. Veblen thought that the purpose of acquisition was public consumption of esteem, status anxiety resolved by material display. Not much more. Wealth, he argued, confers honor; it suggests prowess and achievement. But wealth would have no social meaning were it simply consumed or possessed. &amp;quot;In order to gain and to hold the esteem of men,&amp;quot; he wrote, &amp;quot;it is not sufficient merely to possess wealth or power. The wealth or power must be put in evidence, for esteem is awarded only on evidence.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Thus the absolute centrality of conspicuous consumption. In what Veblen called &amp;quot;barbarian culture,&amp;quot; trophies such as property or slaves were signs of successful aggression. In modern societies luxury is a sign of status and class. It's what we have for harems. But only certain sorts of goods work this magic. There is no rational system. The only constant is that consumers seek the luxurious object for two reasons: to show that they are members of the classes above and to distinguish themselves from those below. Veblen calls the first motive &amp;quot;pecuniary emulation&amp;quot;; the second, &amp;quot;invidious comparison.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;From this comes the economic irrationality of the Veblen effect, namely, that the value of a luxury object is in direct proportion to its cost. Raise the price of certain luxe objects and you increase their value. The Veblen effect is why a T-shirt sold at Sears costs less than the same T-shirt at the Gap, which costs less than the same T-shirt at Hugo Boss, and so forth. Could you sell Evian water if it were priced below a generic? What about Ben &amp;amp; Jerry's ice cream? &lt;em&gt;The Robb Report&lt;/em&gt;? A Lexus? An Ivy League education? It is not enough for me to know what I paid for opuluxe. &lt;em&gt;You&lt;/em&gt; have to know.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Today these products, which are no more (and maybe less) useful than their functional equivalents, are sometimes called &amp;quot;positional goods,&amp;quot; goods that are valued not despite their expense but because of it. Indeed, Veblen argued that since the reasons for buying such goods are &amp;quot;pecuniary emulation&amp;quot; and &amp;quot;invidious comparison,&amp;quot; their utility rises as their prices go up. With insights like this, Veblen proved himself to be too strong a critic to dismiss. You don't need to have read a word he wrote to know him. He set the tone of modern criticism.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;h4
&gt;Economic Moralism &lt;/h4&gt;
&lt;p&gt;The second modern attack on luxury came in the 1950s with John Kenneth Galbraith's &lt;em&gt;The Affluent Society&lt;/em&gt; and, to a lesser degree, the popularizing work of Vance Packard in &lt;em&gt;The Hidden Persuaders&lt;/em&gt;,&lt;em&gt; The Status Seekers&lt;/em&gt;, and &lt;em&gt;The Pyramid Climbers&lt;/em&gt;. Veblenism is all over these books. Galbraith had read Veblen, if not wisely, then too well. In fact, he had edited &lt;em&gt;Theory of the Leisure Class&lt;/em&gt; with all kinds of approving nods and winks. Packard and his snappy titles went along for the ride. To these critics high-end consumption is against our &amp;quot;better nature&amp;quot;; we are duped into consuming by advertisers; consumers are dolts who should be doing other things; luxury is consumption run amok.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;The usual suspects for Galbraith had changed from the captains of industry to the Joneses across the street. Keeping up with them was every bit as dangerous as it had been for a Carnegie to keep up with a Vanderbilt, a Morgan with a Gould. Perhaps even more dangerous because these Joneses now are so numerous. And, as opposed to the robber barons who were outfitting family members, this new solipsistic breed of showoff was outfitting himself.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Veblen's descendants are still at it. Following in the footsteps of Galbraith have been two moralists passing as economists: Juliet Schor, a professor now at Boston College, who has published &lt;em&gt;The Overspent American: Why We Want What We Don't Need&lt;/em&gt;, and Robert Frank, a professor at Cornell, who contributed &lt;em&gt;Luxury Fever: Why Money Fails to Satisfy in an Era of Excess&lt;/em&gt;. Just read the subtitles.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;The modern attack usually centers around a specific object as an exemplum. While Galbraith disliked Cadillac tail fins, Schor disdains granite countertops in the kitchen, and Frank holds up expensive watches as symptomatic of bad habits. On the surface they have such good points: How do those fins help the car move, are those stone countertops better than Formica, does a Lucian Picard keep better time than a Timex?&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;But here's the problem. The 1958 Cadillac has been featured in the Museum of Modern Art's retrospective show celebrating industrial design as art, and if you now want to buy one in mint condition, you'll pay about 20 times the purchase price. The granite countertop really makes more sense as a cutting surface than as a slab to lay down over the dead body of Uncle Louie, and -- who knows? -- it might even be passed from generation to generation, while the sensible Formica is carted out to the dump. And had Frank invested in Lucian Picard watches at the beginning of the bull market, he would have made more on his watch investment than on the S&amp;amp;P 500. Drats! That this stuff could have increased in value tells us how slippery these slopes can be.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;No matter. Critics of consumption love to point out that people with these things are no happier than people without them. Ergo, why buy extra stuff? But people who can't buy unnecessary opuluxe are definitely unhappier for not being let into the cycle; buying this notational stuff and having such stuff are different experiences; consumers move in definite stages, from adolescence, where consumption is central, to middle age, where it ceases to be so important, to old age, where having things is positively a hindrance. Religious fanatics invariably rank highest on happiness scales, irrespective of culture or religion. Let's give happiness a rest. Consumption of the new luxury is about far more interesting sensations.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Whereas Veblen contended that male aggression caused the crazed consumption of deluxe items at the end of his century, these modern critics are more au courant in putting forth their etiology. They medicalize consumption, in large part because the bulk consumers of luxe are now young women. The diagnosis, although they would never use this precise term, is addiction. We are addicted to luxury. That's what causes the fever. That's why we yearn for what we don't want. Diagnosis from the National Public Radio crowd: not just Sudden Wealth Syndrome but the dreaded &amp;quot;affluenza.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Over the Top&lt;/p&gt;
&lt;p&gt;I must say that I found most of the luxury objects that I've looked at, from Patek Philippe watches to Porsche Turbos to the men's room of the Bellagio Hotel, to be a little over the top. But I am not so oblivious to the world around me that I can't appreciate how important the new luxury has become. And I can't overlook how high-end consumption promises to do exactly what critics of the stuff have always yearned for, namely, to bring us together, often traumatically. Yes, indeed, the transgenerational poor are excluded, as the bottom fifth of our population has not budged an inch in the luxe explosion. Yet more people than ever are entering the much-vaunted global village because of consumption, not despite it.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;In fact, one could argue, as Dinesh D'Souza, Virginia Postrel, and W. Michael Cox and Richard Alm have recently done, that the aspiration of the poor to get at these unnecessary goods has done more than any social program to motivate some of the disenchanted to become enfranchised. While one may be distressed at seeing a dish antenna atop a ramshackle house or a Caddie out front, the yearning to have superfluous badges of affluence may promise a more lasting peace around the world than any religion or political system has ever delivered. I don't mean to overlook the complexities here.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;This is not a universal phenomenon, as the al Qaeda have wickedly demonstrated. Some of the world's poor are most certainly not becoming better off in absolute or relative terms. I only want to say that, given a choice between being mugged for your sneakers or having your ethnic or religious heritage cleansed, the lust for sneakers may prove a more lasting way to improve the general lot of humanity.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Let's face it. In the world that I grew up in, your religion, your family name, the color of your skin, your language skills, your gender, where you went to school, your accent, and your marriage partner were doing the work that luxury consumption does now. My dad went to Exeter, Williams, and Harvard Med, and he never drove anything fancier than a Plymouth. He never had to. Today I wouldn't go to a doctor who drove a Plymouth. I would figure that if she doesn't drive a Lexus, she is having trouble with her practice.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;So I admit the ugly truth. After spending the last few years trying to understand the pull of the material world, I am far more sympathetic to its blandishments and far more forgiving of its excesses. The democratization of luxury has been the single most important marketing phenomenon of modern times. And it has profound political implications. It may not be as bad as some lifestyle scolds make it out to be. In its own way it is a fair, albeit often wasteful, system, not just of objects but of meaning. Don't get me wrong: It's not that I came to mock and stayed to pray, but I do feel that getting and spending has some actual worth. Nobody checks the number of vowels in your name, or the color of your skin, or whether you know the difference between &lt;em&gt;like &lt;/em&gt;and &lt;em&gt;as&lt;/em&gt; when you are buying your Prada parka -- that's got to mean something.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Although luxury has become a mallet with which one pounds the taste of others, this misses some essential points. One is that humans are consumers by nature. We are tool users because we like to use what tool using can produce. In other words, tools are not the ends but the means. So too materialism does not crowd out spiritualism; spiritualism is more likely a substitute when objects are scarce. When we have few things, we make the next world luxurious. When we have plenty, we enchant the objects around us.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Second, consumers are rational. They are often fully aware that they are more interested in consuming aura than objects, sizzle than steak, meaning than material. In fact, if you ask them -- as academic critics are usually loath to do -- they are quite candid in explaining that the Nike swoosh, the Polo pony, the Guess? label, the DKNY logo are what they are after. They are not duped by advertising, packaging, branding, fashion, and merchandising. They actively seek and enjoy the status that surrounds the object, especially when they are young.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Third, we need to question the standard argument that consumption of opuluxe almost always leads to disappointment. Admittedly, the circular route from desire to purchase to disappointment to renewed de-sire is never-ending, but we may follow it because the other route -- from melancholy to angst -- is worse. In other words, in a world emptied of inherited values, consuming what looks to be overpriced fripperies may be preferable to consuming nothing.&lt;/p&gt;

&lt;p&gt;Finally, we need to rethink the separation between production and consumption, for they are more alike than separate and occur not at different times and places but simultaneously. Instead of wanting less luxury, we might find that just the opposite -- the paradoxical luxury for all -- is a suitable goal of communal aspiration. After all, luxury before all else is a social construction, and understanding its social ramifications may pave the way for a new appreciation of what has become a characteristic contradiction of our time, the necessary consumption of the unnecessary. &lt;/p&gt;</description>
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<pubDate>Thu, 01 Aug 2002 00:00:00 EDT</pubDate><author>jtwitche@english.ufl.edu (James B. Twitchell)</author>
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<item>
<title>How I Bought My Red Miata</title>
<link>http://www.reason.com/news/show/27794.html</link>
<description>  &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;All our wants, beyond those which a very moderate income will supply, are purely
      imaginary. &lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
      &lt;p&gt;--Henry St. John, 1743&lt;/p&gt;
      &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Things, as such, become goods as soon as the human mind recognizes them as means
      suitable for the promotion of human purposes.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
      &lt;p&gt;--Carl Menger, 1871&lt;/p&gt;
    &lt;/blockquote&gt;
    &lt;p&gt;Sometimes it is best to test academic theory against--gasp!--personal experience. When
    my daughters were little they would go with me to the grocery store. We would start as
    friends, and before a few aisles had passed we would be at each other's throats.
    &amp;quot;Gimme this, I want that, can we have these?&amp;quot;--it would go on and on until, by
    the vegetables, I would lose control and things would degenerate into Kmart Khaos.
    &amp;quot;No, no, a &lt;i&gt;thousand&lt;/i&gt; nos,&amp;quot; I would yell at them. &amp;quot;No, you can't have
    that. No, I won't buy you that.&amp;quot; This didn't work, and by the time we had reached the
    checkout line, they had gotten much of what they had sought.&lt;/p&gt;
    &lt;p&gt;To stop the demoralizing defeat I tried to teach them about consumption. I developed a
    set of shopping axioms I fancifully called The Nerminological Laws of Consumption. The
    Nermies were a make-believe collection of little people with big-people problems. I
    drilled these so-called laws into them so that I could later say, &amp;quot;What
    Nerminological law have you just broken?&amp;quot; whenever they asked for anything.&lt;/p&gt;
    &lt;p&gt;Here are the rules. First, isolate the need. Do you &lt;i&gt;need&lt;/i&gt; this thing or do you
    just &lt;i&gt;want&lt;/i&gt; it? Don't let &lt;i&gt;needs &lt;/i&gt;be confused with &lt;i&gt;wants. &lt;/i&gt;Second, shop
    around. Check out the competition. Do your research. Third, can you afford this? Check
    current and anticipated cash flow. And last, once you have decided, can you read the
    instructions on how to use it properly? Why buy a toy you can't assemble? &lt;/p&gt;
    &lt;p&gt;The success of such a system was not so much that it was logical but that it took so
    long to go through that once they had come to the instruction part, we were out the door. &lt;/p&gt;
    &lt;p&gt;I would live to regret my explanation of what goes on in the Land of the Nermies ruled
    by the inexorable Nerminological Laws. It happened about 10 years ago. I bought a Mazda
    Miata. This is a snappy little red sports car that 12-year-old boys really like, but
    chubby, balding 50-year-olds usually buy. My daughters like driving it, but better, they
    like asking me which of the Nerminological Laws I followed when I bought it. Did I &lt;i&gt;need&lt;/i&gt;
    a car since I biked to work? Did I need a car that seats only two? Did I really shop
    around? Could I afford it on my professor salary? Did I even know how to drive it
    properly? If so, why did I brake during cornering instead of accelerating? Could I fix it?
    Did I even know where the battery was hidden? Clearly, they enjoyed seeing me hoisted by
    my own petard.&lt;/p&gt;
    &lt;p&gt;Although this car has given me much pleasure, I still can't figure out exactly why I
    bought it. I know how to buy stuff. I'm fully mature. I contribute regularly to my
    retirement account. When I was growing up, my parents subscribed to &lt;i&gt;Consumer Reports, &lt;/i&gt;and
    I learned how to read all the little bullseye symbols telling you if this was a good deal
    or a so-so one. So what happened?&lt;/p&gt;
    &lt;p&gt;I bought the car because of an advertisement. The ad itself is not complex. In fact, it
    is the standard &amp;quot;product as hero&amp;quot; ad that we have all seen a thousand times.
    There, stage center, lit from behind like a haloed angel, is this thing in your garage. If
    you are middle-aged, the garage is clearly from your early adolescence, when you were
    moving out of your room and mixing your toys with the stuff of your parents. But wait!
    That stuff in the pictured garage is not your dad's stuff--those are not his toys, they
    are yours. Dad didn't grow up with a wiffle ball, a dart board, the teddy bear, the
    metronome (aargh!), the dollhouse, that bike.&lt;/p&gt;
    &lt;p&gt;The maudlin text below the icon makes it clear. All this is/was yours:&lt;/p&gt;
    &lt;p&gt;&amp;quot;It was one of those summer evenings you wished would never end, and the whole
    neighborhood turned out to see your new car. You answered a million questions, and
    everyone sat in the driver's seat. They went home long after sunset.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;
    &lt;p&gt;In an interesting kind of temporal dislocation the &amp;quot;you&lt;i&gt;&amp;quot;&lt;/i&gt; is in the
    past tense. This is the you of your childhood, the you who rushed downtown each September
    to see what the new cars looked like, the you who&lt;b&gt; &lt;/b&gt;dreamed about getting an MG, an
    Austin Healey 3000, or maybe a Triumph. It would be red, or maybe English racing green.
    When someone had a car like that what could you do but just stand there and look at it?
    There was really nothing you could say.&lt;/p&gt;
    &lt;p&gt;The last line in the copy pulls the plug. &amp;quot;But it was still T-shirt warm by the
    time the kids were in bed. So you came out for one last look.&amp;quot; The &amp;quot;you&amp;quot; as
    observer has become the &amp;quot;you&amp;quot; as owner. It's yours now. This missing part of
    your past, this thing that always belonged to someone else, is yours. Little wonder the
    car is positioned and lit like a holy relic. It's coming at you. All you have to do is
    grasp it.&lt;/p&gt;
    &lt;p&gt;What separates this ad from the usual automotive pitch is its claim on memory. The more
    usual claim for sports cars is sexual: Get this car, get that girl. So the sports car is
    usually photographed out in the rugged countryside, the sport himself is young and virile,
    and the chick by his side just can't stop looking at him. In advertising lingo this is
    called the aspirational sell: Use the product and everyone will see what a real man you
    are.&lt;/p&gt;
    &lt;p&gt;What is important about the Miata ad is that there is no one at the wheel and no dreamy
    chick flapping her lashes at him. This driver's seat is vacant. You've always wanted to
    sit there.&lt;b&gt; &lt;/b&gt;Now you can. Here, as my cultural studies colleagues might say, is
    nostalgic onanism.&lt;/p&gt;
    &lt;p&gt;Although I had &amp;quot;new-car fever&amp;quot; (a common enough strain of affluenza), the
    object was difficult to consume. Here's why. I teach school. I wear khaki pants. I had a
    green book bag in graduate school. I am a company man. I buy my cars from Volvo or Saab.
    Not because I like those cars--I don't. They are built to be ugly and are no fun. But they
    are part of the uniform. They are from Sweden, for goodness' sake, the Valhalla of
    academic liberalism. If I bought the Miata I was not just going to lose my affiliation
    with my usual consumption group, I was going over to a different group, to a group I
    abhorred. If I bought this car I was going to become ...a yuppie!&lt;/p&gt;
    &lt;p&gt;At the time I was making my decision (in the early 1990s),&lt;b&gt; &lt;/b&gt;yuppies were the
    group du jour of marketers and the group de resistance for all the rest of us. The
    original definition was a &amp;quot;young urban professional,&amp;quot; but at some point this
    became corrupted to mean a &amp;quot;young upwardly mobile professional.&amp;quot; From there the
    meaning spread to define an entire generation of affluent and selfish 20-somethings who
    were hot on the heels of us baby boomers. Demographically, yuppies were part of the 76
    million people born between 1946 and 1964. Their number was small. Indeed, the only
    definitive estimate of the yuppie population, published in &lt;i&gt;American Demographics&lt;/i&gt; in
    1985, found just 4 million of them, representing a mere 5 percent of late baby boomers.
    But their impact on the rest of us was huge--reverse magnetism.&lt;/p&gt;
    &lt;p&gt;Yuppies were disgusting. What made them disgusting was their lack of reticence in the
    displaying of commercial badges. More interesting still was that no one ever would admit
    to being one of them. In fact, in retrospect, the real sign of being a yuppie was that you
    tried hard to disassociate from them while all along displaying their badges.&lt;/p&gt;
    &lt;p&gt;Yuppies were unique in that they were the first consumption community that I can think
    of known &lt;i&gt;only &lt;/i&gt;by their badges. No one came forward like Marlon Brando, Abbie
    Hoffman, John Wayne, or Elton John to personify the group. Richard Gere laying out his
    clothes on the bed in the 1980 movie &lt;i&gt;American Gigolo &lt;/i&gt;might have been the yuppie
    archetype, but he seemed a little too moody about his stuff. Still, rather like Eagle
    Scouts, yuppies had no distinct personality other than their merit (or &lt;i&gt;demerit,&lt;/i&gt;
    it's up to you) badges worn almost Pancho Villa style around their vacuous lifestyles.&lt;/p&gt;
    &lt;p&gt;Here are just a few of the yuppie badges: yellow ties and red suspenders, Merlot,
    marinated salmon steaks, green-bottle beer, Club Med vacations, stuff with ducks on it,
    Gaggenau stoves, Sub-Zero refrigerators, latte, clothing from Ann Taylor or Ralph Lauren,
    designer water, Filofax binders, Cuisinarts, kiwi fruit, Ben &amp;amp; Jerry's ice cream,
    ventless Italian suits, pasta makers, bread makers, espresso-cappuccino makers, cell
    phones, home fax machines, air and water cleaners, laptop computers, exercise machines,
    massage tables, and remote controls for the television, the VCR, the CD player, the stereo
    receiver, the garage door, the child. More than anything, of course, the car--especially
    the BMW, the infamous beemer--was the yuppie badge nonpareil.&lt;/p&gt;
    &lt;p&gt;The yuppie and his German or Japanese car were academic anathema. If a colleague were
    to see me in such a car he would surely think I had gone over to the other side. My cousin
    with the pricy condo, the Jenn-Air gas grill, Biggest Bertha Ever golf club, and the
    Suburban could be a yuppie. But not me. I only bought just the things I absolutely
    needed...like a red Miata? And that, of course, was precisely my problem. When I bought
    this car, I became one of them.&lt;/p&gt;
    &lt;p&gt;I dilate on my Miata decision because it shows the dynamic of pressures in the
    commercial world. Two generations ago maybe choosing what denomination of the
    Congregational church to attend would have caused me such distress. Do I dare be seen with
    Unitarians? At the turn of this century what musical instrument you played would have been
    important. &amp;quot;They laughed when I sat down at the piano, but when I started to
    play!&amp;quot; describes a Horatio Alger experience we have trouble understanding. Maybe
    status would have been derived from what I read. Could I be seen reading Walt Whitman?
    What about what I ate? Our grandparents read etiquette books detailing the shame you
    should feel if you ordered the same meal too often. &amp;quot;Again she orders--A chicken
    salad, please!&amp;quot; is the headline of an ad for such an etiquette book. It is presumably
    spoken by an exasperated young man about his date. What if I coughed? Would that be a
    social blunder? &lt;/p&gt;
    &lt;p&gt;Perhaps what I wore. Could I be seen wearing a gold stickpin in my tie? The way we live
    now, I worry that I might be mistaken for a yuppie.&lt;/p&gt;
    &lt;p&gt;While I certainly went through the modern version of the &amp;quot;agonies of the
    damned&amp;quot; buying a Japanese internal-combustion engine advertised through nostalgia and
    wrapped in red plastic, I never once was duped, misled, waylaid, or reified. In fact, I
    loved the process. They offered me my dream and I gladly bought it. I never liked that
    dreary Volvo to begin with. Now I'm wondering about a Jaguar, perhaps something from the
    early '80s, not too ostentatious but still flashy, if you know what I mean.&lt;/p&gt;</description>
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<pubDate>Tue, 01 Aug 2000 00:00:00 EDT</pubDate><author>jtwitche@english.ufl.edu (James B. Twitchell)</author>
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<item>
<title>In Praise of Consumerism</title>
<link>http://www.reason.com/news/show/27795.html</link>
<description>     &lt;blockquote&gt;
      &lt;p&gt;&lt;em&gt;Sell them their dreams. Sell them what they longed for and hoped for and almost
      despaired of having. Sell them hats by splashing sunlight across them. Sell them
      dreams--dreams of country clubs and proms and visions of what might happen if only. After
      all, people don't buy things to have things. They buy things to work for them. They buy
      hope--hope of what your merchandise will do for them. Sell them this hope and you won't
      have to worry about selling them goods.&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
      &lt;p&gt;--Helen Landon Cass&lt;/p&gt;
    &lt;/blockquote&gt;
    &lt;p&gt;Those words were spoken some years ago by a female radio announcer to a convention of
    salesmen in Philadelphia. &lt;em&gt;The Philadelphia Retail Ledger &lt;/em&gt;for June 6, 1923, recorded
    Ms. Cass' invocations with no surrounding explanation. They were simply noted as a matter
    of record, not as a startling insight.&lt;/p&gt;
    &lt;p&gt;There are two ways to read her spiel. You can read it like a melancholy Marxist and see
    the barely veiled indictment of the selling process. What does she think consumers
    are--dopes to be duped? What is she selling? Snake oil?&lt;/p&gt;
    &lt;p&gt;Or you can read it like an unrepentant capitalist and see the connection between
    consuming goods and gathering meaning. The reason producers splash magical promise over
    their goods is because consumers demand it. Consumers are not sold a bill of goods; they &lt;em&gt;insist&lt;/em&gt;
    on it. Snake oil to the cynic is often holy water to the eager. What looks like exploiting
    desire may be fulfilling desire.&lt;/p&gt;
    &lt;p&gt;How you come down in this matter depends on your estimation of the audience. Does the
    audience manipulate things to make meaning, or do other people use things to manipulate
    the audience? Clearly, this is a variation of &amp;quot;I persuade, you educate, they
    manipulate,&amp;quot; for both points of view are supportable. Let's split the difference and
    be done with it.&lt;/p&gt;
    &lt;p&gt;More interesting to me, however, is to wonder why such a statement, so challenging, so
    revolutionary, so provocative in many respects was, in the early 1920s, so understandable,
    so acceptable, even so passÃ© that it appears with no gloss. Why is it that when you read
    the early descriptions of capitalism, all the current bugaboos--advertising, packaging,
    branding, fashion, and retailing techniques--seem so much better understood?&lt;/p&gt;
    &lt;p&gt;And why has the consumer--playing an active, albeit usually secondary, part in the
    consumptive dyad of earlier interpretations--become almost totally listless in our current
    descriptions? From Thomas Hobbes in the mid-17th century (&amp;quot;As in other things, so in
    men, not the seller but the buyer determines the price&amp;quot;) to Edwin S. Gingham in the
    mid-20th century (&amp;quot;Consumers with dollars in their pockets are not, by any stretch of
    the imagination, weak. To the contrary, they are the most merciless, meanest, toughest
    market disciplinarians I know&amp;quot;), the consumer was seen as participating in the
    meaning-making of the material world. How and why did the consumer get dumbed down and
    phased out so quickly? Why has the hypodermic metaphor (false needs injected into a docile
    populace) become the unchallenged explanation of consumerism?&lt;/p&gt;
    &lt;p&gt;I think that much of our current refusal to consider the liberating role of consumption
    is the result of who has been doing the describing. Since the 1960s, the primary
    &amp;quot;readers&amp;quot; of the commercial &amp;quot;text&amp;quot; have been the well-tended and
    -tenured members of the academy. For any number of reasons--the most obvious being their
    low levels of disposable income, average age, and gender, and the fact that these critics
    are selling a competing product, high-cult (which is also coated with its own dream
    values)--the academy has casually passed off as &amp;quot;hegemonic brainwashing&amp;quot; what
    seems to me, at least, a self-evident truth about human nature: We like having stuff.&lt;/p&gt;
    &lt;p&gt;In place of the obvious, they have substituted an interpretation that they themselves
    often call &lt;em&gt;vulgar &lt;/em&gt;Marxism. It is supposedly vulgar in the sense that it is not as
    sophisticated as the real stuff, but it has enough spin on it to be more appropriately
    called Marxism &lt;em&gt;lite. &lt;/em&gt;Go into almost any cultural studies course in this country and
    you will hear the condemnation of consumerism expounded: What we see in the marketplace is
    the result of the manipulation of the many for the profit of the few. Consumers are led
    around by the nose. We live in a squirrel cage. Left alone we would read Wordsworth, eat
    lots of salad, and have meetings to discuss Really Important Subjects.&lt;/p&gt;
    &lt;p&gt;In cultural studies today, everything is oppression and we are all victims. In
    macrocosmic form, the oppression is economic--the &amp;quot;free&amp;quot; market. In microcosmic
    form, oppression is media--your &amp;quot;free&amp;quot; TV. Here, in the jargon of this
    downmarket Marxism, is how the system works: The manipulators, a.k.a. &amp;quot;the culture
    industry,&amp;quot; attempt to enlarge their hegemony by establishing their ideological base
    in the hearts and pocketbooks of a weak and demoralized populace. Left alone, we would
    never desire things (ugh!). They have made us materialistic. But for them, we would be
    spiritual.&lt;/p&gt;
    &lt;p&gt;To these critics, the masters of industry and their henchmen, the media lords, are
    predators, and what they do in no way reflects or resolves genuine audience concerns. Just
    the opposite. The masters of the media collude, striving to infantilize us so that we are
    docile, anxious, and filled with &amp;quot;reified desire.&amp;quot; While we may think
    advertising is just &amp;quot;talking about the product,&amp;quot; that packaging just &amp;quot;wraps
    the object,&amp;quot; that retailing is just &amp;quot;trading the product,&amp;quot; or that fashion
    is just &amp;quot;the style of the product,&amp;quot; this is not so. That you may think so only
    proves their power over you. The marginalized among us--the African American, the child,
    the immigrant, and especially the female--are trapped into this commodifying system, this
    false consciousness, and this fetishism that only the enlightened can correct. Legendary
    ad man David Ogilvy's observation that, &amp;quot;The consumer is no fool, she is your
    wife&amp;quot; is just an example of the repressive tolerance of such a sexist, materialist
    culture.&lt;/p&gt;
    &lt;p&gt;Needless to say, in such a system the only safe place to be is tenured, underpaid,
    self-defined as marginalized, teaching two days a week for nine months a year, and writing
    really perceptive social criticism that your colleagues can pretend to read. Or rather,
    you &lt;em&gt;would&lt;/em&gt; be writing such articles if only you could find the time.&lt;/p&gt;
    &lt;p&gt;The Triumph of Stuff&lt;/p&gt;
    &lt;p&gt;The idea that consumerism creates artificial desires rests on a wistful ignorance of
    history and human nature, on the hazy, romantic feeling that there existed some halcyon
    era of noble savages with purely natural needs. Once fed and sheltered, our needs have
    always been cultural, not natural. Until there is some other system to codify and satisfy
    those needs and yearnings, capitalism--and the culture it carries with it--will continue
    not just to thrive but to triumph.&lt;/p&gt;
    &lt;p&gt;In the way we live now, it is simply impossible to consume objects without consuming
    meaning. Meaning is pumped &lt;em&gt;and &lt;/em&gt;drawn everywhere throughout the modern commercial
    world, into the farthest reaches of space and into the smallest divisions of time.
    Commercialism is the water we all swim in, the air we breathe, our sunlight and shade.
    Currents of desire flow around objects like smoke in a wind tunnel. The complications of
    my Miata purchase (see &amp;quot;How I Bought My Miata,&amp;quot; page 24) are the norm.&lt;/p&gt;
    &lt;p&gt;This isn't to say that I'm simply sanguine about such a material culture. It has many
    problems that I have glossed over. Consumerism is wasteful, it is devoid of otherworldly
    concerns, it lives for today and celebrates the body. It overindulges and spoils the young
    with impossible promises. It encourages recklessness, living beyond one's means, gambling.
    Consumer culture is always new, always without a past. Like religion, which it has
    displaced, it afflicts the comfortable and comforts the afflicted. It is heedless of the
    truly poor who cannot gain access to the loop of meaningful information that is carried
    through its ceaseless exchanges. It is a one-dimensional world, a wafer-thin world, a
    world low on significance and high on glitz, a world without yesterdays.&lt;/p&gt;
    &lt;p&gt;On a personal level, I struggle daily to keep it at bay. For instance, I am offended by
    billboards (how do they externalize costs?); I fight to keep Chris Whittle's Channel One
    TV and all place-based advertising from entering the classroom; political advertising
    makes me sick, especially the last-minute negative ads; I contribute to PBS in hopes they
    will stop slipping down the slope of commercialism (although I know better); I am annoyed
    that Coke has bought all the &amp;quot;pouring rights&amp;quot; at my school and is now trying to
    do the same to the world; I think it's bad enough that the state now sponsors gambling, do
    they also have to support deceptive advertising about it?; I despise the way that amateur
    athletics has become a venue for shoe companies (why not just replace the football with
    the Nike swoosh and be done with it?); and I just go nuts at Christmas.&lt;/p&gt;
    &lt;p&gt;But I also realize that while you don't have to like it, it doesn't hurt to understand
    it and our part in it. We have not been led astray. Henry Luce was not far off when he
    claimed in a February 1941 editorial in &lt;em&gt;Life &lt;/em&gt;magazine that the next era was to be
    the American Century: &amp;quot;The Greeks, the Romans, the English and the French had their
    eras, and now it was ours.&amp;quot; Not only that, but we are likely to commandeer much of
    the 21st century as well.&lt;/p&gt;
    &lt;p&gt;Almost a decade ago, Francis Fukuyama, a State Department official, contended in his
    controversial essay (and later book) &amp;quot;The End of History?&amp;quot; that &amp;quot;the
    ineluctable spread of consumerist Western culture&amp;quot; presages &amp;quot;not just the end of
    the Cold War, or the passing of a particular period of postwar history, but the end of
    history as such: that is, the end point of mankind's ideological evolution.&amp;quot; OK, such
    predictions are not new. &amp;quot;The End of History&amp;quot; (as we know it) and &amp;quot;the end
    point of mankind's ideological evolution&amp;quot; have been predicted before by philosophers.
    Hegel claimed it had already happened in 1806 when Napoleon embodied the ideals of the
    French Revolution, and Marx said the end was coming soon with world communism. What
    legitimizes this modern claim is that it is demonstrably true. For better or for worse,
    American commercial culture is well on its way to becoming world culture. The Soviets have
    fallen. Only quixotic French intellectuals and anxious Islamic fundamentalists are trying
    to stand up to it.&lt;/p&gt;
    &lt;p&gt;To some degree, the triumph of consumerism is the triumph of the popular will. You may
    not like what is manufactured, advertised, packaged, branded, and broadcast, but it is far
    closer to what most people want most of the time than at any other period of modern
    history.&lt;/p&gt;
    &lt;p&gt;Trollope and &lt;em&gt;The Jerk&lt;/em&gt;&lt;/p&gt;
    &lt;p&gt;Two fictional characters personify to me the great divide: Augustus Melmotte, the
    protagonist of Anthony Trollope's 19th-century novel, &lt;em&gt;The Way We Live Now&lt;/em&gt;, and
    Navin R. Johnson, the eponymous hero of Steve Martin's 1979 movie, &lt;em&gt;The Jerk&lt;/em&gt;.&lt;/p&gt;
    &lt;p&gt;Melmotte, a Jew, comes from Paris to London with his daughter and his Bohemian wife.
    When the action of the novel is over and Augustus has committed suicide because he cannot
    fit in to proper Victorian society, wife and daughter head off to America--to San
    Francisco, to be exact. Trollope is always exact in letting you know that geography
    determines character. So too we know that Ruby Ruggles and her bumpkin brother belong at
    Sheep's Acres Farm and that Roger Carbury should preside over Carbury Hall. Sir Felix
    Carbury, fallen from grace, must go to Germany--there is no room for his kind, no club
    that will accept him. Mrs. Hurtle comes from San Francisco and in the end must return
    there.&lt;/p&gt;
    &lt;p&gt;Any Trollope lover worth his salt can tell you much about the protagonists simply by
    such comings and goings. These paths are the code by which our grandparents recognized, in
    Dominick Dunne's felicitous title, those who are &amp;quot;people like us&amp;quot;: our kind/not
    our kind. The Victorian reading public needed such shorthand because &lt;em&gt;things&lt;/em&gt; had no
    brand personalities--manners, places, sinecures--and bloodlines did. Salaries meant
    little, accomplishments even less. The central acts of &lt;em&gt;The Way We Live Now&lt;/em&gt; are the
    attempts by Augustus Melmotte to buy a titled husband for his daughter and get a named
    estate for himself. He can't do it, of course--how silly to try, even if he is the
    &amp;quot;City's most powerful financier.&amp;quot; In his world, meaning was generated through
    such social conventions as the abstract concept of bloodline, the value of patina, your
    club, owning land, acceptable in-laws, your accent, the seating chart for dinner, the
    proper church pew--all things Melmotte could never master. It was a stultifying system--a
    real old-boy network, but one that to Trollope still worked. It was a system presided over
    by chummy squires, comfortable gentlemen, and twinkling clerics.&lt;/p&gt;
    &lt;p&gt;Compare that to the world of &lt;em&gt;The Jerk&lt;/em&gt;. Here, the story is held together by the
    running joke that when Navin R. Johnson is being the most idiotic, he is really being the
    most savant. After a series of misadventures, Navin amasses a fortune by inventing a way
    to keep eyeglasses from slipping down the nose (the &amp;quot;Opti-grab&amp;quot;). He wins the
    hand of his sweetheart, buys incredibly gauche gold chains, swag lamps, outrageous golf
    carts, and ersatz Grecian mansions. Surrounded by things, he is finally happy. But
    then--curses!--he loses his possessions as a google-eyed litigant wins a class-action
    lawsuit because the Opti-grab has made many wearers cross-eyed. Navin's wife is
    distraught. She bursts into tears. &amp;quot;I don't care about losing the money, it's losing
    all this stuff.&amp;quot; &lt;/p&gt;
    &lt;p&gt;Navin, as innocent as he is honest, says he doesn't really care about these things, he
    knows who he is without possessions. His sense of self is certainly not tied to the
    material world. &amp;quot;I don't want stuff...I don't need anything,&amp;quot; he says to her as
    he starts to leave the room in his pajamas. He sees an old ashtray. &amp;quot;Except this
    ashtray, and that's the only thing I need is this,&amp;quot; he says, as he leans over to pick
    it up. Navin walks to the door. &amp;quot;Well, and this paddle game and the ashtray is all I
    need. And this, this remote control; that's all I need, just the ashtray, paddle game, and
    this remote control.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;
    &lt;p&gt;Navin is growing progressively more frantic in vintage Steve Martin fashion. He is in
    the hall now, pajamas down around his knees and his arms full of stuff. &amp;quot;And these
    matches. Just the ashtray, paddle ball, remote control, and these matches...and this lamp,
    and that's all I need. I don't need one other thing...except this magazine.&amp;quot; We hear
    him gathering more things as he disappears down the hall. Navin, jerk enough to think he
    needs nothing, is sage enough not to leave home without a few of his favorite things.&lt;/p&gt;
    &lt;p&gt;Augustus Melmotte, certified world-class financier, is forever kept at bay. He never
    achieves his goal and finally commits suicide. Navin R. Johnson, certified consumer jerk,
    achieves (if only for a while) the objects of his heart's desire. He finally becomes a bum
    on Skid Row, true, but a bum who at least can try it all over again. In a consumerist
    culture, the value-making ligatures that hold our world together come from such
    conventions as advertising, packaging, branding, fashion, and even shopping itself. It is
    a system presided over by marketers who deliver the goods and all that is carried in their
    wake. It is a more democratic world, a more egalitarian world, and, I think, a more
    interesting world.&lt;/p&gt;
    &lt;p&gt;That said, commercialism can be a stultifying system too, and wasteful. It would be
    nice to think that this eternally encouraging market will result in the cosmopolitanism
    envisioned by the Enlightenment philosophers, that a &amp;quot;universalism of goods&amp;quot;
    will end in a crescendo of hosannas. It would be nice to think that more and more of the
    poor and disenfranchised will find their ways into the cycle of increased affluence
    without contracting &amp;quot;affluenza,&amp;quot; the &amp;quot;disease&amp;quot; of buying too much. It
    would be nice to think that materialism could be heroic, self-abnegating, and redemptive.
    It would be nice to think that greater material comforts will release us from racism,
    sexism, and ethnocentricism, and that the apocalypse will come as it did at the end of
    Shelley's &lt;em&gt;Prometheus Unbound, &lt;/em&gt;leaving us &amp;quot;Sceptreless, free,
    uncircumscribed...Equal, unclassed, tribeless, and nationless...Pinnacled dim in the
    intense inane.&amp;quot;&lt;/p&gt;
    &lt;p&gt;But it is more likely that the globalization of capitalism will result in the
    banalities of an ever-increasing, worldwide consumerist culture. Recall that Athens ceased
    to be a world power around 400 B.C., yet for the next three hundred years Greek culture
    was the culture of the world. The Age of European Exposition ended in the mid-20th
    century; the Age of American Markets--Yankee imperialism--is just starting to gather
    force. The French don't stand a chance. The Middle East is collapsing under the weight of
    dish antennas and Golden Arches. The untranscendent, repetitive, sensational, democratic,
    immediate, tribalizing, and unifying force of what Irving Kristol calls the American
    Imperium need not result in a Bronze Age of culture, however. In fact, who knows what this
    Pax Americana will result in? But it certainly will not produce what Shelley had in mind.&lt;/p&gt;
    &lt;p&gt;We have been in the global marketplace a short time, and it is an often scary and
    melancholy place. A butterfly flapping its wings in China may not cause storm clouds over
    Miami, but a few lines of computer code written by some kid in Palo Alto may indeed change
    the lives of all the inhabitants of Shanghai.&lt;/p&gt;
    &lt;p&gt;More important, perhaps, we have not been led into this world of material closeness
    against our better judgment. For many of us, especially when young, consumerism is not
    against our better judgment. It &lt;em&gt;is&lt;/em&gt; our better judgment. And this is true regardless
    of class or culture. We have not just asked to go this way, we have demanded. Now most of
    the world is lining up, pushing and shoving, eager to elbow into the mall. Woe to the
    government or religion that says no.&lt;/p&gt;
    &lt;p&gt;Getting and spending have been the most passionate, and often the most imaginative,
    endeavors of modern life. We have done more than acknowledge that the good life starts
    with the material life, as the ancients did. We have made stuff the dominant prerequisite
    of organized society. Things &amp;quot;R&amp;quot; Us. Consumption has become production. While
    this is dreary and depressing to some, as doubtless it should be, it is liberating and
    democratic to many more.&lt;/p&gt;</description>
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<pubDate>Tue, 01 Aug 2000 00:00:00 EDT</pubDate><author>jtwitche@english.ufl.edu (James B. Twitchell)</author>
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<title>Charge It!</title>
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<pubDate>Mon, 01 Nov 1999 00:00:00 EST</pubDate><author>jtwitche@english.ufl.edu (James B. Twitchell)</author>
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